A Local's Guide to Chicago

Chicagoland is a sprawling urban flatland of 9 million souls. Like Rome of yesteryear, every road (plus train and plane) leads to the metropolis. Chicago is a massive city, and to the visitor this can induce anxiety. For every tourist trap, there are some undiscovered, or perhaps under appreciated tourist spots, restaurants, and places to see.

Architecture enthusiasts should avoid those pricey architecture tours. They're a rip-off, and for the amount you pay, you don't see a lot. I suggest watching Geoffrey Baer's river tour of Chicago on DVD and taking a Chicago River Taxi. Wendella Boats, I've been told by their competition, is unreliable, but for the price you pay ($6 round trip), you can enjoy a leisurely glide down the Chicago River. It departs from Trump Tower, near the Michigan Avenue bridge, and stops at Madison (between the Lyric Opera and Ogilvie Train Station) and at Chinatown (at the pagoda). They pass stations up sometimes, but that's part of the experience. At Chinatown, peruse the stores for prices that are a steal, and enjoy lunch with massive servings at the Moon Palace Restaurant. At Navy Pier, walk around and look, but spending money will exhaust your budget. Instead, purchase a trip on one of many boats on the pier, and see the skyline from the Lake. It will cool you down and affords beautifully views; on a clear day you can see as a far as Indiana. Enjoy Massa Cafe's stand on the pier for delicious gelato.

Chicago is a dining mecca. There are so many restaurants it can be a little overwhelming to make a decision. Pasta Palazzo (at Halsted & Armitage) is a Lincoln Park Italian restaurant that serves delicious, generously portioned pastas. They used to only take cash and served drinks in plastic cups, but through the years, they've moved up to credit and glassware. It's atmosphere, replete with low lighting and colored walls, coupled with a din of conversation, is warm and inviting. Get a window seat, it's worth it. Chain restaurants are equally delicious. Though Giodano's Pizza is the king of Chicago style, I also recommend California Pizza Kitchen. They have a plethora of wonderful pizza "flavors" and prompt service. Tip: request a bread basket, it's free but if you don't ask, you won't receive. I like the CPK on North Avenue, but the best is in Water Tower Place Mall on Michigan.

Chicago's green lung are its park systems. The parks are an attraction in themselves, and if you don't have money, they are a cheap way to entertain. Grant Park, in the lower Loop, is vast but sitting on the berm on Lake Michigan on a sunny spring day is a transcendental experience. Lincoln Park is good for a walk along tree-lined paths on a slightly rainy day, and the zoo is free. The Lincoln Park Zoo is an antiquated "zoological garden," so flora and fauna fans will be equally amused. It's a real charmer. Garfield Park is on the South Side, but don't let that deter you from strolling in the massive humid conservatory. The flowers are pretty and the koi ponds are cute. The best park is Washington Square, near the Gold Coast. It's across the street from the Newberry Library, and is boarded by a wrought iron fence. Park goers sit around a massive fountain, as children play in the groves of flower beds and trees.

Chicago's museums are world renowned. The Art Institute of Chicago is on Michigan, just off Adams. I suggest eating at Au Bon Pain across the street, then going in on Thursday night for free admission. You'll find everything from impressionism to Dali. The Field Museum is a natural history museum. Check the calendar for free admission days, and go see the Man Eating Lions of Tsavo and Sue the T-Rex. For kids, the Science and Industry Museum is a playground of exploration. There's everything from a submarine to fetuses in glass jars (my personal favorite).

The United Center, on the Near West Side, is located in an iffy area of town, but it offers reasonably priced concert tickets in the upper 300s tier. The UIC Pavilion showcases college-rock shows, but sometimes people like Kylie Minogue play there. Most concerts stop at the Allstate Arena and the Rosemont Theatre in Rosemont, adjacent to O'Hare. Take the Blue Line from the city; it's under an hour and fares are super cheap. Allstate is big enough to bring Britney Spears, but it's feeling is intimate. The Rosemont Theatre is smaller, but a great place to see up-and-coming artists. Call the box office for better seats than what's offered on ticketmaster. Find a cheap ticket broker if seeing a broadway play at the Cadillac Palace, it will save you money (prices are usually about $18-$30 for decent views this way).

Avoid Chicago during the Taste during the summer, and on sports-game days. For a city that's already a zoo, it's a mess then. Trains from the suburbs run into Union and Ogilvie Station at reasonable fares. The L, Chicago's subway/overhead train system, can be accessed using the same cards you use for the buses. They can be purchased nearly everywhere, and are the best bang-for-your buck. Midway Aiport is in the South Side, a bad area of the city, but take the red line north to the Loop. It's far cheaper than a cab. Don't even think about cabbing from O'Hare, it's nearly $50. Instead, take the blue line. Trains and buses run about every 8 minutes, a vast majority of them offer "night owl" service. When asking for directions, ask for the intersection, that's how everyone gets from point a to b. Many times, distance but time of travel is referred to, as traffic is dependant not on how far, but how long.

Bon Voyage,

Oprah